We use Chymas, which is chymosin that has been grown in pure batches, using a neutral food source in a laboratory, essentially taking the calf out of the process entirely," says Bunce. "We use this because its 'bonding' characteristics are better than traditional rennet or the plant extract substitute, there-fore it produces as high a yield of cheese than they do. Rennet tends to add, in a subtle way, its own flavor and comes with negative connotations, being an animal based product. Pure strains of chymosin over all are just a superior product while having the benefits of being Vegetarian Society and Kosher approved.

Bunce also makes his Brie in a traditional way, staying away from the methods used in mass production. Mass production dictates that Brie is made with a 'stabilized' process, which halts the ripening process, thus giving the cheese a considerably longer shelf life. In mass production, the Brie is sprayed with mold, bringing about the white, bloomy rind. Stabilized Brie tends to taste more like Mozzarella, with a rubbery texture and little flavor.

At Marin French Cheese Company, Bunce and his cheese makers produce naturally ripening 'living Brie'. This means the milk is inoculated with a 'mold' and a 'culture'. In being exposed to air, the cheese begins to grow mold, eventually forming the bloomy, white rind on its own, which is a more natural process. The culture which comes from various culture houses in the U.S., France and Denmark, is what gives the Brie its distinctive 'Brie' flavor. In aging, the Brie continues to break down in consistency, gaining a creamy texture and stronger flavor. Natural products (in larger 2 and 5 lb. wheels) last 90 days, being fully ripened at 60 days. This leaves a 30 day window of ripeness for consumption.

"If you cut our bloom ripened cheeses fresh, before their wrapped," says Bunce, "the edges will grow the same bloomy mold. This is because the mold is throughout the cheese and will grow as soon as it comes in contact with air. This mold growth is highly beneficial because the rind breaks down the cheese and also provides most of the flavor. Chefs and cheese lovers prefer the fuller flavor of our Brie and Camembert, that they've typically only found in small artisan made cheeses in Europe."

Under Howard Bunce's direction, Marin French Cheese Company produces cow's milk cheeses sold under the Rouge et Noir label, Camembert, Brie, flavored Brie, breakfast cheese, and the robust tasting 'Schloss'.

Marin French Cheese Company is a destination point worth visiting. Southwest of Petaluma, just across the Marin County Line, the location is one of the best places in the area for a picnic, especially in the summer and spring when the hills and trees are green and lush Picnic tables line the edge of the pond which is usually full of ducks, geese, and red-wing blackbirds, all eager to partake in their visitors' lunch. You can purchase cheese and wine in the on-site shop, along with cold meats and crackers. The cheeses sold in the shop are usually ones that did not meet the 'code' for size and shape, and so are sold at a VERY reasonable price.

California wine country is sprinkled with many artisan cheese dairies, all possessing their own stylistic approach. Each regions, such as Sonoma is worth it, If you are visiting Sonoma be sure to tour others besides,

Bellwether Farms (888) 527-8606 / (707) 763-0993
Marin French Cheese Company (707) 762-6001
Joe Matos Cheese Factory (707) 584-5283
Redwood Hill Farm Goat Dairy (707) 823-8250
Clover Stornetta Farms (707) 778-8448
Laura Chenel Chevre (707) 996-4477
Vella Cheese Company (800) 848-0505 / (707) 938-3232
Sonoma Cheese Factory (800) 535-2855 / (707) 996-1000

are a few of the more established ones.